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An Ice-Cream Parlor Where Time Stands Still

In this series for T, the author Reggie Nadelson revisits New York institutions that have defined cool for decades, from time-honored restaurants …

An Ice-Cream Parlor Where Time Stands Still

In this series for T, the author Reggie Nadelson revisits New York institutions that have defined cool for decades, from time-honored restaurants to unsung dives.

It’s easy enough to find banana and fudge or banana caramel ice cream at your local deli these days, but the flavor I miss from my childhood, and which is far harder to track down, is just plain banana. No chocolate, no nuts. It tasted only of cream, bananas and sugar, and was much more luscious and profound than the sum of its parts. At Eddie’s Sweet Shop in Forest Hills, Queens, it is just as I remember it,as if seasoned with a dash of nostalgia.

Often described as New York’s longest surviving ice cream parlor, Eddie’s is a neighborhood institution beloved for both its frozen confections and the fact that it has remained pretty much unchanged since Giuseppe Citrano, an immigrant from Southern Italy, bought it in 1968. According to the Rego-Forest Preservation Council, there has likely been a soda fountain at the address, a two-story red brick building at 105-29 Metropolitan Avenue, since at least the late 1940s, when William Witt, a German American, opened Witt’s Ice Cream Parlor there. But it was Citrano who made the place Eddie’s. Apparently there was no Eddie, and Citrano’s son Vito often jokes that his father must have reckoned that if he didn’t put his own name on the door, should a customer have a grievance, they wouldn’t get mad at him. With his father, Citranois said to have coined the slogan “Take your children to the place your grandparents had ice cream.”

A hot fudge sundae with homemade hand-whipped cream and a cherry on top.Credit…Daniel Terna
The soda fountain at Eddie’s Sweet Shop, with a vintage refrigerator behind it, and worn wood-topped stools in front. The floors and ceiling are original.Credit…Daniel Terna

Unsurprisingly, then, Vito (who took over in the early 2000s) and his wife, Angelina, who own and run the store now, aim to keep Eddie’s as it has always been. Even the metal boat-shaped dishes for banana splits are vintage, with some dating back to the shop’s early days.

In fact, Eddie’s entire interior evokes a bygone age — or the drugstore from Thornton Wilder’s 1938 play “Our Town,” perhaps. To your left as you enter is a long marble counter with wood-topped swivel stools. Along the wall behind it is an elaborate wood built-in with mirrors and slots for printed cards bearing the names of ice cream flavors: butter pecan, maple walnut, cherry vanilla, vanilla fudge,mint chip. On a ledge, large glass jars hold syrups, and there is an ancient-looking green metal machine for making malts and milkshakes, as well as an enameled refrigerator that, according to Vito, “is at least 80 years old but still works.” The original ceiling overhead is made of pressed tin, the floor out of hexagonal green and white tiles, and opposite the counter is a large glass-fronted wood case filled with a colorful assortment of candy. “In the ’70s, we made our own chocolates,” Vito says. “But we got too busy.”

Behind the counter, a board listing flavors and, at left, the vintage milkshake and malt maker.
Credit…Daniel Terna
The candy case, filled with sweets and toys.Credit…Daniel Terna

At the back of the space — though, on account of the pandemic, Eddie’s is currently open only for takeout — are little tables and slightly rickety wire chairs, as well as a few booths. When I arrive late on a sunny afternoon with my friends Jolie and Gary Alony, who own the beloved neighborhood pharmacy Thompson Chemists in SoHo, a diverse crowd of all ages is eating ice cream with a certain look of ecstasy on their faces and, in the case of one little girl, whipped cream on her nose.

There is much studying of the menu, as if it were an ancient text. Possible orders include milkshakes, malts, floats and some of the best egg creams in New York — the kind with just a dash of seltzer added to the milk and syrup. Naturally,I start with some banana ice cream, but then I decide that I should probably try some other flavors, too, topped with my choice of caramel, hot fudge, pineapple, butterscotch, walnuts (plain or in syrup) or chocolate sauce.

In addition to the banana ice cream, there is one absolute knockout. I have probably eaten hundreds of gallons of coffee ice cream in my time — many of them during the pandemic lockdown — but Eddie’s is the best I’ve ever had. Like everything else here, from the syrups to the whipped cream, it’s made on the premises, and it has a deep, subtle flavor: creamy but not overly rich, sweet but without that strange aftertaste caused by too much sugar. Vito doesn’t introduce new flavors casually but is open to experimentation. “If you want Rocky Road, we can add marshmallows and nuts to your chocolate ice cream,” he tells me. “In fact, my son Brandon, who is often behind the counter, is a master mixologist, and it’s a bit of an exaggeration, but he can probably produce up to a million combinations.”

A banana split served in a classic footed metal dish.Credit…Daniel Terna
Old-fashioned glass bowls of candy in a vintage mirrored display case.Credit…Daniel Terna

Joseph, the younger of Vito’s twosons, can often be found downstairs in the kitchen making ice cream and toppings (he even soaks the raisins in real rum). Vito beams when he tells me about his kids. He himself worked alongside his father and his grandfather, who was also named Vito, starting at the age of 12, andsays it was his father who showed him the meaning of hard work. For a short time after college, Vito worked in finance, but he was back soon at the family business.

I’ve come to Eddie’s with the Alonys because Gary, who was born in Rego Park, one neighborhood over from Eddie’s, has always loved the area’s history. “It was 1976 when my friends and I began exploring Forest Hills,” he says. They would ride their bikes to Station Square, with its old inn and shops. “We were too young to attend the great concerts at the stadium in the ’60s by the Beatles and Simon and Garfunkel, who went to Forest Hills High. But we rode with joy past the Forest Hills Gardens, with its grand Tudor-style mansions, and for a bunch of 13-year-old kids, the neighborhood felt locked in time. There was no better break than to stop at Eddie’s.”

In 1988, Gary met Jolie. She was an Upper East Side Manhattan girl who ate her ice cream at Serendipity 3 on East 60th Street, and at the long-gone Rumpelmayer’s at the Hotel St. Moritz. She was, however, won over when, for their first date, Garytook her to Eddie’s. Now in their mid-50s, they’ve been married since 1991.

“I thought it was so romantic to sit at a small, round table set for two and share a banana split with coffee ice cream and chocolate syrup and homemade whipped cream,” says Jolie. “Gary was so excited that he also ordered milkshakes.” Grinning, she recallshow, when she was growing up, Manhattanites would often refer to people from Brooklyn and Queens as “Bridge and Tunnel people.” “And then they had that 718 phone number,” she says. “But that date turned out to be the best. I fell head over heels in love with my Bridge and Tunnel husband at Eddie’s.”

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escortaksaray escortamasya escortankara escortantalya escortantep escortardahan escortartvin escortaydın escortbalıkesir escortbartın escortbatman escortbayburt escortbilecik escortbingol escortbitlis escortbolu escortburdur escortbursa escortçanakkale escortçankırı escortçorum escortdenizli escortdiyarbakır escortdüzce escortedirne escortelazığ escorterzincan escorterzurum escorteskişehir escortgiresun escortgümüşhane escorthakkari escorthatay escortığdır escortısparta escortistanbul escortizmir escortizmit escortkarabük escortkaraman escortkars escortkastamonu escortkayseri escortkıbrıs escortkilis escortkırıkkale escortkırklareli escortkırşehir escortkocaeli escortkonya escortkütahya escortmalatya escortmanisa escortmaraş escortmardin escortmersin escortmuğla escortmuş escortnevşehir escortniğde escortordu escortosmaniye escortrize escortsakarya escortsamsun escortsiirt escortsinop escortşırnak escortsivas escorttekirdağ escorttokat escorttrabzon escorttunceli escortzonguldak escorturfa escortuşak escortvan escortyalova escortyozgat escorterkeklerde sertleşmeye iyi gelen ilaçlarsertleştirici hap eczane fiyatlarıvega 100 mg hapfuck googledolandırıcı hesap satışıbacklink alToscanello Blu Anice AnasonToscanello CappuccinoToscanello Cioccolato ÇikolataToscanello GrappaToscanello LimoncelloToscanello MacchiatoToscanello Rosso CaffeToscanello RubinoToscanello VanilyaToscanello PuroToscanello Cappuccino PuroAvrupa yakası escortAksaray escortAtaköy escortAtaşehir escortAvcılar escortBahçelievler escortBahçeşehir escortBakırköy escortBaşakşehir escortBeşiktaş escortBeylikdüzü escortBostancı escortBüyükçekmece escortEsenyurt escortEtiler escortFatih escortHalkalı escortKadıköy escortKartal escortKüçükçekmece escortMaltepe escortMecidiyeköy escortMerter escortPendik escortRus escortŞirinevler escortŞişli escortTaksim escortTopkapı escortümraniye escortZeytinburnu escortgaziantep escortalanya escorttekirdağ escortşanlıurfa escortşanlıurfa escortsamsun escortbolu escortbodrum escortbeylikdüzü escortyozgat escortyalova escortvan escortuşak escorturfa escorttrabzon escorttokat escorttokat escortsivas escorturfa escortsakarya escortsakarya escortrize escortniğde escortniğde escortmuğla escortmuğla escortmarmaris escortmardin escortmardin escortmaraş escortmanisa escortmanisa escortkütahya escortkocaeli escortkocaeli escortkıbrıs escortkastamonu escortkars escortısparta escortgümüşhane escortgiresun escortgaziantep escortzonguldak escortzonguldak escortyozgat escortyalova escortvan escorttrabzon escorttekirdağ escortsivas escortsamsun escortordu escortmersin escortmaraş escortmalatya escortkütahya escortkuşadası escortkonya escortkayseri escortkastamonu escortısparta escorthatay escortgiresun escorteskişehir escorterzurum escorttekirdağ escortdiyarbakır escortçorum escortçeşme escortburdur escortbolu escortmalatya escortdenizli escortbodrum escortbalıkesir escortafyon escortbalıkesir escortaydın escortartvin escortantep escortantalya escortağrı 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escortbolu escortbeylikdüzü escortmalatya escortadana escortafyon escorteskişehir escorterzurum escorterzurum escorterzincan escortelazığ escortelazığ escortelazığ escortelazığ escortedirne escortedirne escortdüzce escortdiyarbakır escortdidim escortdenizli escortçorum escortçeşme escortçeşme escortçanakkale escortçanakkale escortçanakkale escortburdur escortbolu escortbodrum escortbodrum escortbalıkesir escortaydın escortartvin escortartvin escortantep escortantep escortalanya escortağrı escortafyon escortadana escortantalya escortalanya escortalanya escortAmazon Prime izleBeIN Connect izleBlutv izleDisney Plus izleexxen izleGain TV izleNetflix izleAmazon prime izleBlutv izleDisney Plus izlebeylikdüzü escorteryaman escortcaptain blackkalpli sigarasertleştirici hap eczane fiyatlarışişme bebeksertleşme sağlayıcı ilaçlar ve isimleriviagra fiyatManchester Double Drive SigaraKing Edward imperial puroadana escort1xbet kayıt1xbet casino1xbetpenis sertleştirici cinsel haplarescortAydın 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escort bayanEscort ankaraEscort Bayan İstanbulümraniye escortüsküdar escortzeytinburnu escortkadıköy escortkağıthane escortkartal escortmaltepe escortkeçiören escortmanavgat escortalanya escortbodrum escortkuşadası escortdidim escortarnavutköy escortsilifke escortbelek escortşişli escortpendik escortkarşıyaka escortseyhan escortnilüfer escortesenler escortbeylikdüzü escortİstanbul escortİstanbul escort bayanEscort istanbulBayan escortEscort bayanescortseoboşalmayı geciktirici haplargeciktirici kremlergeciktirici spreylerpenis büyütücü haplarbayan azdırıcı damlabayan azdırıcı haperken boşalma geciktirici ilaçlarpenis büyütücü çeşitleribayan cinsel istek arttırıcılarcialis fiyatıviagra fiyatlarıbayan cinsel istek arttırıcılarerken boşalmayı geciktirici ilaç çeşitleripenis büyütücü ürün çeşitlerierken boşalmayı geciktirici ilaç çeşitleribayan cinsel istek arttırıcı damlageciktirici sprey çeşitlerien iyi geciktirici kremkadın istek arttırıcı damlaen iyi bayan azdırıcı ilaçcialis fiyatı eczaneviagra eczane fiyatıerken boşalmayı geciktirici haplargeciktirici krem çeşitleripenis büyütücü haplarcinsel gücü arttırıcı ilaçlarbayan azdırıcı ilaçlaren iyi geciktirici ilaç isimleripenis büyütücü kremen iyi bayan cinsel istek arttırıcılargeciktirici haplargeciktirici kremler çeşitlerikadın azdırıcı çeşitlerigeciktirici ilaç çeşitleripenis büyütücü çeşitlerieczane cialis fiyatıviagra eczane fiyatlarıbayan azdırıcı ilaçlaren iyi geciktiricilerpenis büyütücülerbayan uyarıcılarerken boşalmayı geciktiren ilaçlarpenis büyütücülerviagra eczane satış fiyatlarıeczane cialis fiyatıerken boşalmayı geciktirici ilaçlargeciktirici krem fiyatlarıgeciktirici sprey eczaneen etkili büyütücülerbayan istek arttırıcı çeşitlerien iyi bayan cinsel istek artırıcılarerken boşalmayı geciktirici ilaçcialis eczanecialis eczanede kaç tlADANA ESCORTANKARA ESCORTANTALYA ESCORTMERSİN ESCORTİZMİR ESCORTKAYSERİ ESCORTKONYA ESCORTAnadolu Yakası Escortavrupa yakası escortcialis fiyatıcinsel ereksiyon ilaçlarıcialis fiyatlarıviagra fiyatıcialis fiyatı eczaneFlynta 20 Mgkamagra 100 mgOrcafil 20 MgLifta 5 MgHardcis 5 MgLex 20 MgLevitra 20 MgPriligy 30 MgVigaroo 100 MgHardcis 20 MgAfilta 20 MgHardcis 20 Mgdegralifta 20 mgankara escortantalya escortizmir escortmersin escortCinsel sağlık ürünleriCinsel performans ürünleriGeciktirici ürünlerSertleştirici haplarKamagra jelKamagra jel fiyatKamagra jel eczaneVega 100 mgVega 100 mg fiyatViagraViagra fiyatViagra 100 mg fiyatViagra 30 lu fiyatCialisCialis fiyatCialis 20 mg fiyatCialis 100 mg fiyatCialis 30 lu tablet fiyatCialis 5 mg fiyatankara escortantalya escortizmir escortAdıyaman EscortArtvin EscortBilecik EscortBingöl EScortBitlis EscortBurdur EscortÇankırı EscortÇorum EscortGiresun EscortGümüşhane EscortKars EscortKastamonu EscortKırklareli EscortKırşehir EscortNevşehir EscortErzincan EscortNiğde EscortOrdu EscortSiirt EscortSinop EscortBayburt EscortKaraman EscortKırıkkale EscortBatman EscortŞırnak EscortBartın EscortArdahan Escortığdır EscortKarabük EscortOsmaniye EscortDüzce EscortKilis EscortAdana EscortAnkara EscortAntalya EscortAydın EscortBursa EscortDenizli EscortDiyarbakır EscortEskişehir EscortAntep EscortHatay EscortMersin Escortizmir EscortKayseri EscortKocaeli EscortKonya EscortMalatya EscortMardin EscortSakarya EscortSamsun EscortTrabzon EscortYalova EscortAdıyaman EscortAfyon EscortVan EscortAğrı EscortAmasya EscortBalıkesir EscortBilecik EscortBolu EscortBurdur EscortÇanakkale EscortEdirne EscortElazığ EscortErzincan EscortErzurum Escortısparta EscortKars EscortKastamonu EscortManisa EscortKütahya EscortMuğla EscortRize EscortSivas EscortTekirdağ EscortUrfa EscortOrdu EscortNevşehir EscortMaraş EscortZonguldak Escortadana escortalanya escortankara escortantalya escortaydın escortbursa escortçorlu escortdenizli escortdiyarbakır escortelazığ escorteskişehir escortgaziantep escortizmir escortkayseri escortkocaeli escortkonya escortmalatya escortmersin escortpendik escortsakarya escortsamsun escorttrabzon escortadana escortankara escortalanya escortantalya escortaydın escortbursa escortçorlu escortdenizli escortdiyarbakır escortelazığ escorteskişehir escortgaziantep escortistanbul escortizmir escortizmit escortkayseri escortkocaeli escortkonya escortmalatya escortmersin escortsakarya escortsamsun escorttrabzon escort520 Kalpli Sigara Kavunlu520 Kalpli Sigara Liçi Kral Meyvesicialis eczane fiyatı 2023viagra eczane fiyatı 2023free shopbayan azdırıcılarerken boşalmayı geciktiricilerviagra fiyatı 2023cialis fiyatı 2023eczanede satılan sertleştirici ilaçlarbeylikdüzü escortcialiscialiscialis 100 mgviagra 30 lu tabletkadın azdırıcıereksiyon haplarıgeciktirici spreypenis büyütmeviagrakamagracinsel ilaçlarcialis 5 mgcialis 20 mgcinsel eczanebayan azdırıcı eczaneistek arttırıcı damlacinsel güç arttırıcı ilaçlareczanelerde satılan geciktiricilerkamagra jelorjinal viagracialis 5 mgviagraeczane sağlıkcialis fiyatviagra fiyatkamagra jelcialis 100 mgviagra 30 lucialis 20 mggeciktirici spreybayan azdırıcı ilaçlarkadın azdırıcı damlasertleştirici ilaçlarpenis büyütücücialis 5 mgcialiscialis 5 mgKamagra jelCialis fiyatViagra fiyatEreksiyon haplarıCinsel sağlık ürünleriCinsel ilaçlarBayan azdırıcı damlaCialis fiyatViagra fiyatKamagra jelGeciktirici spreyCinsel performans artırıcı ürünlerBayan azdırıcı hapCialis 30 lu tabletpenis sertleştirici ilaç isimlericialis fiyatı 2023 eczaneviagra eczane satış fiyatı 2023lifta fiyatı eczanepenis sertleştirici ilaç çeşitlerieczane cialis fiyatıorijinal viagra fiyatıfx15 orijinal zayıflama hapıyapay kızlık zarı siparişvajina daraltıcı kremyalova escortmuğla escortaydın escorttrabzon escortkütahya escortçanakkale escortbalıkesir escortmanisa escorttekirdağ escortkahramanmaraş escortelazığ escortsivas escortşanlıurfa escorterzurum escortamasya escortvan escortrize escortgiresun escortordu escorttokat escortyozgat escortçorum escortmond sigarabayan azdırıcı damla çeşitlerikamagra jel eczane fiyatıafyon escortbalıkesir escortkütahya escortmanisa escortbolu escortmuğla escortbodrum escortmarmaris escortedirne escortkeşan escortriz escorterzincan escorthatay escortçorlu escortDating Escortkonya escortmersin escortadana escortbursa escortmalatya escortkayseri escortaydın escortMilano Coffee Sigara Kahve AromalıMilano Gum Sigara Sakız Aromalıoris sigaraelazığ escortkocaeli escortizmir escortkayseri escortgaziantep escortadana escortkonya escortümraniye escortizmit escorteskişehir escortmersin escortIstanbul Escortsamsun escortvan escortaydın escortedirne escortaksaray escortantalya escortescort antalyaescortAdana Escortadıyaman escortafyon escortağrı escortaksaray escortamasya escortankara escortantalya escortardahan escortartvin escortaydın escortbalıkesir escortpung hile satın albartın escortbatman escortbayburt escortbilecik escortbingöl escortbitlis escortbolu escortburdur escortbursa escortçanakkale escortçankırı escortçorum escortdenizli escortdiyarbakır escortdüzce escortedirne escortelazığ escorterzincan escorterzurum 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