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After Time of ‘Real Terror,’ City’s Resilience Is Symbolized in Statue

BRESCIA, Italy — Wearing a toga, the woman points out the top attractions of one of Italy’s more underrated cities: Look! Here’s the ancient …

After Time of ‘Real Terror,’ City’s Resilience Is Symbolized in Statue

BRESCIA, Italy — Wearing a toga, the woman points out the top attractions of one of Italy’s more underrated cities: Look! Here’s the ancient Capitoline Temple. Over here you have the Renaissance-era piazza. And you simply must check out the side-by-side old and new cathedrals.

Then the tour guide performs a neat trick that would make Ovid proud: She metamorphoses into an winged statue, while a young girl looking on mouths: “Wow.”

The commercial, seen on national TV, encourages Italians to take in the sights of Brescia, an industrious northern city midway between Milan and Verona that is bypassed by most international visitors and whose considerable charms most Italians need reminding of, too.

The city is known for an ancient Roman sculpture that for nearly 200 years has been a symbol of Brescia’s resilience in times of trouble. And the artwork’s return to public viewing, after a lengthy restoration, couldn’t have come at a more apt time for a city, and a region, devastated by the coronavirus.

Piazza della Loggia in Brescia in October. Seven months ago, the virus was still an oppressive presence in the city, with the local health system stretched well beyond its limits.Credit…Alessandro Grassani for The New York Times

“The ‘Winged Victory’ is back, and Brescia is flying once again,” the commercial proclaims.

In 2020, Italy was the first country in Europe to have a major outbreak of the coronavirus, and cities in the Lombardy region — especially Brescia and Bergamo, its neighbor 20 miles to the west — became early warnings to the world of just how catastrophic the pandemic would be.

Thousands died here, and few Italians will forget the image of army trucks transporting coffins from Bergamo to remote cremation sites or cemeteries when the city’s morgues were overwhelmed just weeks into the outbreak. At one point that spring, Brescia’s hospitals had more coronavirus patients than any other place in Europe.

It was a time of “real terror,” recalled Brescia’s mayor, Emilio Del Bono, as just about everyone had a friend or a relative or a neighbor who died or ended up in intensive care. The coronavirus had completely infiltrated people’s lives; “you sensed it close by,” the mayor said.

Seven months ago, the virus was still very much an oppressive presence here, with infections traced to the Delta variant stretching the local health system well beyond its limits, once again.

Stefano Karadjov, the director of Brescia’s municipal museums, at the Archaeological Park of Roman Brescia. “Life is returning to normal,” but people “still need a little nudge,” when it comes to traveling, he said.Credit…Alessandro Grassani for The New York Times

Now, as contagions wane nationwide because of the government’s aggressive vaccination drive, and as coronavirus restrictions on social activities increasingly loosen, Brescia is experiencing a moment of “postwar euphoria,” Mr. Del Bono said.

City officials are trying to capitalize on those good feelings to promote a city better known for its industrial production — mostly machine tools and steel products — than as a cultural hub. And they have adopted the “Winged Victory” as the city’s spur to visitors.

“Life is returning to normal,” but people “still need a little nudge,” when it comes to traveling, Stefano Karadjov, the director of Brescia’s municipal museums, said of the national ad campaign.

Dating to the first century A.D., the “Winged Victory” was rediscovered on July 20, 1826, during an enormous archaeological excavation of Brescia’s downtown. The intact bronze statue was found in a hidden nook of a large temple, where it had been stashed centuries earlier.

“Winged Victory,” dating to the first century A.D., was rediscovered in 1826, during an archaeological excavation of Brescia’s downtown. The intact statue was found in a hidden nook of a large temple.Credit…Alessandro Grassani for The New York Times

The discovery made Brescia a must-see destination for 19th-century travelers on their Grand Tour of Europe, and copies of the statue came to be in high demand among museums and collectors worldwide.

The find revived local pride in Brescia’s Roman heritage, when Brixia, as the city was known in ancient times, was a thriving place, and the “Winged Victory” was a gilded beacon seen from afar by travelers on the ancient Via Gallica, which linked some of the most important towns in northern Italy.

As a cluster of kingdoms, papal states and communes began to successfully shake off foreign influences in the 19th century to be unified as the Kingdom of Italy, the “Winged Victory” became a symbol of civic identity and inspiration during the city’s 1849 insurrection against Austrian forces. The poet Giosuè Carducci wrote an ode to the statue that also celebrated Brescia as the “Lioness of Italy” because of its citizens’ bravery during a 10-day revolt for the cause of Italian unity.

That spirit survives today, residents say. “In general, this is a city of people who don’t give up,” said Nicola Albarelli, the owner of a toy store on a street leading to Brescia’s main hospital, where ambulances raced by nearly nonstop during the first three months of the pandemic.

Brescia in October. The discovery of the statue in the 19th century made Brescia a must-see destination for travelers at the time and revived local pride in the city’s Roman heritage.Credit…Alessandro Grassani for The New York Times

In 1998, the statue was put on display in a city museum, but a restoration completed last year became the opportunity to reinstall the sculpture in the city’s archaeological park to better showcase the piece.

When President Sergio Mattarella of Italy visited Brescia last May, his first trip outside Rome after the third wave of the pandemic began to subside, he chose to speak from a podium inside the archaeological park to offer words of hope to the wounded city and the nation.

“This is the time of renewal, also to honor the victims; it’s the time of recovery; it’s the time to imagine and plan the future, and I am happy to say this here,” celebrating the restoration of the ‘Winged Victory,’” Mr. Mattarella said.

Images of and homages to the statue now festoon the city. Brescia’s main vaccination center has looped videos of the statue’s restoration to help citizens pass the time while they wait. The Italian artist Emilio Isgrò created a monumental installation featuring the “Winged Victory” for one of Brescia’s metro stations that was inaugurated a year ago.

The sculpture “Nike Metafisica” by contemporary artist Francesco Vezzoli at the Archaeological Park of Roman Brescia in October.Credit…Alessandro Grassani for The New York Times

And since the summer, the archaeological site has featured an exhibition of works by the Brescia-born and globally known contemporary artist Francesco Vezzoli, including his version of a better-known winged victory statue: the “Nike of Samothrace” in the Louvre.

The cultural reboot will get a further boost in 2023 when Brescia and Bergamo will share the title of Italy’s Capital of Culture, after other cities pulled out of the race during the pandemic to unanimously crown the hard-hit Lombardy towns.

“It was a gesture of great solidarity and generosity on the part of the mayors of other cities,” Mr. Del Bono said.

After the horrors and mourning of the pandemic’s worst weeks, Brescia’s residents are regaining a rare feeling: optimism.

“There’s a real desire to get on with things,” said Monica Ferrata, who works in a family-owned bookshop. Though the days, and nights, when “the wail of ambulance sirens seemed never to stop” still haunt her, she said, the mood in the city was positive. “I have a good feeling.”

The Piazza della Loggia this month. Brescia will share the title of Italy’s Capital of Culture with Bergamo in 2023.Credit…Alessandro Grassani for The New York Times
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escortaksaray escortamasya escortankara escortantalya escortantep escortardahan escortartvin escortaydın escortbalıkesir escortbartın escortbatman escortbayburt escortbilecik escortbingol escortbitlis escortbolu escortburdur escortbursa escortçanakkale escortçankırı escortçorum escortdenizli escortdiyarbakır escortdüzce escortedirne escortelazığ escorterzincan escorterzurum escorteskişehir escortgiresun escortgümüşhane escorthakkari escorthatay escortığdır escortısparta escortistanbul escortizmir escortizmit escortkarabük escortkaraman escortkars escortkastamonu escortkayseri escortkıbrıs escortkilis escortkırıkkale escortkırklareli escortkırşehir escortkocaeli escortkonya escortkütahya escortmalatya escortmanisa escortmaraş escortmardin escortmersin escortmuğla escortmuş escortnevşehir escortniğde escortordu escortosmaniye escortrize escortsakarya escortsamsun escortsiirt escortsinop escortşırnak escortsivas escorttekirdağ escorttokat escorttrabzon escorttunceli escortzonguldak escorturfa escortuşak escortvan escortyalova escortyozgat escorterkeklerde sertleşmeye iyi gelen ilaçlarsertleştirici hap eczane fiyatlarıvega 100 mg hapfuck googledolandırıcı hesap satışıbacklink alToscanello Blu Anice AnasonToscanello CappuccinoToscanello Cioccolato ÇikolataToscanello GrappaToscanello LimoncelloToscanello MacchiatoToscanello Rosso CaffeToscanello RubinoToscanello VanilyaToscanello PuroToscanello Cappuccino PuroAvrupa yakası escortAksaray escortAtaköy escortAtaşehir escortAvcılar escortBahçelievler escortBahçeşehir escortBakırköy escortBaşakşehir escortBeşiktaş escortBeylikdüzü escortBostancı escortBüyükçekmece escortEsenyurt escortEtiler escortFatih escortHalkalı escortKadıköy escortKartal escortKüçükçekmece escortMaltepe escortMecidiyeköy escortMerter escortPendik escortRus escortŞirinevler escortŞişli escortTaksim escortTopkapı escortümraniye escortZeytinburnu escortgaziantep escortalanya escorttekirdağ escortşanlıurfa escortşanlıurfa escortsamsun escortbolu escortbodrum escortbeylikdüzü escortyozgat escortyalova escortvan escortuşak escorturfa escorttrabzon escorttokat escorttokat escortsivas escorturfa escortsakarya escortsakarya escortrize escortniğde escortniğde escortmuğla escortmuğla escortmarmaris escortmardin escortmardin escortmaraş escortmanisa escortmanisa escortkütahya escortkocaeli escortkocaeli escortkıbrıs escortkastamonu escortkars escortısparta escortgümüşhane escortgiresun escortgaziantep escortzonguldak escortzonguldak escortyozgat escortyalova escortvan escorttrabzon escorttekirdağ escortsivas escortsamsun escortordu escortmersin escortmaraş escortmalatya escortkütahya escortkuşadası escortkonya escortkayseri escortkastamonu escortısparta escorthatay escortgiresun escorteskişehir escorterzurum escorttekirdağ escortdiyarbakır escortçorum escortçeşme escortburdur escortbolu escortmalatya escortdenizli escortbodrum escortbalıkesir escortafyon escortbalıkesir escortaydın escortartvin escortantep escortantalya escortağrı 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escortbolu escortbeylikdüzü escortmalatya escortadana escortafyon escorteskişehir escorterzurum escorterzurum escorterzincan escortelazığ escortelazığ escortelazığ escortelazığ escortedirne escortedirne escortdüzce escortdiyarbakır escortdidim escortdenizli escortçorum escortçeşme escortçeşme escortçanakkale escortçanakkale escortçanakkale escortburdur escortbolu escortbodrum escortbodrum escortbalıkesir escortaydın escortartvin escortartvin escortantep escortantep escortalanya escortağrı escortafyon escortadana escortantalya escortalanya escortalanya escortAmazon Prime izleBeIN Connect izleBlutv izleDisney Plus izleexxen izleGain TV izleNetflix izleAmazon prime izleBlutv izleDisney Plus izlebeylikdüzü escorteryaman escortcaptain blackkalpli sigarasertleştirici hap eczane fiyatlarışişme bebeksertleşme sağlayıcı ilaçlar ve isimleriviagra fiyatManchester Double Drive SigaraKing Edward imperial puroadana escort1xbet kayıt1xbet casino1xbetpenis sertleştirici cinsel haplarescortAydın 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escort bayanEscort ankaraEscort Bayan İstanbulümraniye escortüsküdar escortzeytinburnu escortkadıköy escortkağıthane escortkartal escortmaltepe escortkeçiören escortmanavgat escortalanya escortbodrum escortkuşadası escortdidim escortarnavutköy escortsilifke escortbelek escortşişli escortpendik escortkarşıyaka escortseyhan escortnilüfer escortesenler escortbeylikdüzü escortİstanbul escortİstanbul escort bayanEscort istanbulBayan escortEscort bayanescortseoboşalmayı geciktirici haplargeciktirici kremlergeciktirici spreylerpenis büyütücü haplarbayan azdırıcı damlabayan azdırıcı haperken boşalma geciktirici ilaçlarpenis büyütücü çeşitleribayan cinsel istek arttırıcılarcialis fiyatıviagra fiyatlarıbayan cinsel istek arttırıcılarerken boşalmayı geciktirici ilaç çeşitleripenis büyütücü ürün çeşitlerierken boşalmayı geciktirici ilaç çeşitleribayan cinsel istek arttırıcı damlageciktirici sprey çeşitlerien iyi geciktirici kremkadın istek arttırıcı damlaen iyi bayan azdırıcı ilaçcialis fiyatı eczaneviagra eczane fiyatıerken boşalmayı geciktirici haplargeciktirici krem çeşitleripenis büyütücü haplarcinsel gücü arttırıcı ilaçlarbayan azdırıcı ilaçlaren iyi geciktirici ilaç isimleripenis büyütücü kremen iyi bayan cinsel istek arttırıcılargeciktirici haplargeciktirici kremler çeşitlerikadın azdırıcı çeşitlerigeciktirici ilaç çeşitleripenis büyütücü çeşitlerieczane cialis fiyatıviagra eczane fiyatlarıbayan azdırıcı ilaçlaren iyi geciktiricilerpenis büyütücülerbayan uyarıcılarerken boşalmayı geciktiren ilaçlarpenis büyütücülerviagra eczane satış fiyatlarıeczane cialis fiyatıerken boşalmayı geciktirici ilaçlargeciktirici krem fiyatlarıgeciktirici sprey eczaneen etkili büyütücülerbayan istek arttırıcı çeşitlerien iyi bayan cinsel istek artırıcılarerken boşalmayı geciktirici ilaçcialis eczanecialis eczanede kaç tlADANA ESCORTANKARA ESCORTANTALYA ESCORTMERSİN ESCORTİZMİR ESCORTKAYSERİ ESCORTKONYA ESCORTAnadolu Yakası Escortavrupa yakası escortcialis fiyatıcinsel ereksiyon ilaçlarıcialis fiyatlarıviagra fiyatıcialis fiyatı eczaneFlynta 20 Mgkamagra 100 mgOrcafil 20 MgLifta 5 MgHardcis 5 MgLex 20 MgLevitra 20 MgPriligy 30 MgVigaroo 100 MgHardcis 20 MgAfilta 20 MgHardcis 20 Mgdegralifta 20 mgankara escortantalya escortizmir escortmersin escortCinsel sağlık ürünleriCinsel performans ürünleriGeciktirici ürünlerSertleştirici haplarKamagra jelKamagra jel fiyatKamagra jel eczaneVega 100 mgVega 100 mg fiyatViagraViagra fiyatViagra 100 mg fiyatViagra 30 lu fiyatCialisCialis fiyatCialis 20 mg fiyatCialis 100 mg fiyatCialis 30 lu tablet fiyatCialis 5 mg fiyatankara escortantalya escortizmir escortAdıyaman EscortArtvin EscortBilecik EscortBingöl EScortBitlis EscortBurdur EscortÇankırı EscortÇorum EscortGiresun EscortGümüşhane EscortKars EscortKastamonu EscortKırklareli EscortKırşehir EscortNevşehir EscortErzincan EscortNiğde EscortOrdu EscortSiirt EscortSinop EscortBayburt EscortKaraman EscortKırıkkale EscortBatman EscortŞırnak EscortBartın EscortArdahan Escortığdır EscortKarabük EscortOsmaniye EscortDüzce EscortKilis EscortAdana EscortAnkara EscortAntalya EscortAydın EscortBursa EscortDenizli EscortDiyarbakır EscortEskişehir EscortAntep EscortHatay EscortMersin Escortizmir EscortKayseri EscortKocaeli EscortKonya EscortMalatya EscortMardin EscortSakarya EscortSamsun EscortTrabzon EscortYalova EscortAdıyaman EscortAfyon EscortVan EscortAğrı EscortAmasya EscortBalıkesir EscortBilecik EscortBolu EscortBurdur EscortÇanakkale EscortEdirne EscortElazığ EscortErzincan EscortErzurum Escortısparta EscortKars EscortKastamonu EscortManisa EscortKütahya EscortMuğla EscortRize EscortSivas EscortTekirdağ EscortUrfa EscortOrdu EscortNevşehir EscortMaraş EscortZonguldak Escortadana escortalanya escortankara escortantalya escortaydın escortbursa escortçorlu escortdenizli escortdiyarbakır escortelazığ escorteskişehir escortgaziantep escortizmir escortkayseri escortkocaeli escortkonya escortmalatya escortmersin escortpendik escortsakarya escortsamsun escorttrabzon escortadana escortankara escortalanya escortantalya escortaydın escortbursa escortçorlu escortdenizli escortdiyarbakır escortelazığ escorteskişehir escortgaziantep escortistanbul escortizmir escortizmit escortkayseri escortkocaeli escortkonya escortmalatya escortmersin escortsakarya escortsamsun escorttrabzon escort520 Kalpli Sigara Kavunlu520 Kalpli Sigara Liçi Kral Meyvesicialis eczane fiyatı 2023viagra eczane fiyatı 2023free shopbayan azdırıcılarerken boşalmayı geciktiricilerviagra fiyatı 2023cialis fiyatı 2023eczanede satılan sertleştirici ilaçlarbeylikdüzü escortcialiscialiscialis 100 mgviagra 30 lu tabletkadın azdırıcıereksiyon haplarıgeciktirici spreypenis büyütmeviagrakamagracinsel ilaçlarcialis 5 mgcialis 20 mgcinsel eczanebayan azdırıcı eczaneistek arttırıcı damlacinsel güç arttırıcı ilaçlareczanelerde satılan geciktiricilerkamagra jelorjinal viagracialis 5 mgviagraeczane sağlıkcialis fiyatviagra fiyatkamagra jelcialis 100 mgviagra 30 lucialis 20 mggeciktirici spreybayan azdırıcı ilaçlarkadın azdırıcı damlasertleştirici ilaçlarpenis büyütücücialis 5 mgcialiscialis 5 mgKamagra jelCialis fiyatViagra fiyatEreksiyon haplarıCinsel sağlık ürünleriCinsel ilaçlarBayan azdırıcı damlaCialis fiyatViagra fiyatKamagra jelGeciktirici spreyCinsel performans artırıcı ürünlerBayan azdırıcı hapCialis 30 lu tabletpenis sertleştirici ilaç isimlericialis fiyatı 2023 eczaneviagra eczane satış fiyatı 2023lifta fiyatı eczanepenis sertleştirici ilaç çeşitlerieczane cialis fiyatıorijinal viagra fiyatıfx15 orijinal zayıflama hapıyapay kızlık zarı siparişvajina daraltıcı kremyalova escortmuğla escortaydın escorttrabzon escortkütahya escortçanakkale escortbalıkesir escortmanisa escorttekirdağ escortkahramanmaraş escortelazığ escortsivas escortşanlıurfa escorterzurum escortamasya escortvan escortrize escortgiresun escortordu escorttokat escortyozgat escortçorum escortmond sigarabayan azdırıcı damla çeşitlerikamagra jel eczane fiyatıafyon escortbalıkesir escortkütahya escortmanisa escortbolu escortmuğla escortbodrum escortmarmaris escortedirne escortkeşan escortriz escorterzincan escorthatay escortçorlu escortDating Escortkonya escortmersin escortadana escortbursa escortmalatya escortkayseri escortaydın escortMilano Coffee Sigara Kahve AromalıMilano Gum Sigara Sakız Aromalıoris sigaraelazığ escortkocaeli escortizmir escortkayseri escortgaziantep escortadana escortkonya escortümraniye escortizmit escorteskişehir escortmersin escortIstanbul Escortsamsun escortvan escortaydın escortedirne escortaksaray escortantalya escortescort antalyaescortAdana Escortadıyaman escortafyon escortağrı escortaksaray escortamasya escortankara escortantalya escortardahan escortartvin escortaydın escortbalıkesir escortpung hile satın albartın escortbatman escortbayburt escortbilecik escortbingöl escortbitlis escortbolu escortburdur escortbursa escortçanakkale escortçankırı escortçorum escortdenizli escortdiyarbakır escortdüzce escortedirne escortelazığ escorterzincan escorterzurum 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