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The Endless Pleasures of Vegetarian Cooking

By trade, I’m an omnivore. The only food rule I follow is that I eat everything, because anything can lead to deliciousness. Maybe it’s goat meat …

The Endless Pleasures of Vegetarian Cooking

By trade, I’m an omnivore. The only food rule I follow is that I eat everything, because anything can lead to deliciousness. Maybe it’s goat meat on the bone, cooked low and slow and served in a dark pool of its own cooking juices. Maybe it’s a bloomy wheel of cheese made from cashew milk, dense and creamy in the middle. If it’s good, I want it, and then I want seconds.

But when I cook at home, what I want more and more of is vegetables. Right now, this instant, I want long, skinny tongues of charred eggplant dressed in soy sauce and maple syrup, over rice. I want bright tomato pulp puréed with bread and olive oil, right from the lip of the bowl. I want a big pile of lettuce leaves filled with Hetty McKinnon’s sweet and spicy tofu larb.

When the weather cools down? I want a hot pot of winter greens and chewy noodles in miso broth. I want my favorite toor dal with whole boiled peanuts. I want sweet-edged, wrinkly roasted root vegetables over heaps of cheesy polenta, swimming in olive oil.

I don’t know exactly when my appetite became so intensely focused on vegetarian foods in my own kitchen. It happened slowly, then all at once, like a custard thickening on the stovetop. I revised my food shopping, and my home cooking followed, branching out and expanding. I went back to old, favorite cookbooks that included meat and fish only occasionally, or not at all, like “River Cafe Cook Book Green,” by Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers, and “Classic Indian Vegetarian Cookery,” by Julie Sahni.

I already knew that the world of vegetarian cooking was vast and diverse, its pleasures endless, but I wanted a place to concentrate on it, to celebrate it. So starting this week, I’ll be writing a new weekly newsletter: The Veggie. On Thursdays, I’ll share vegetarian recipes and notes from my own kitchen, and from my colleagues. You can expect traditional dishes from long-established vegetarian cuisines, as well as adaptations and fun experiments; quick everyday recipes and special occasion dishes that require a bit more planning.

Maybe you’re drawn to vegetarian food for ethical reasons, for health reasons, for ecological reasons, for reasons you can’t quite explain just yet. Maybe you’re trying to get out of a kitchen rut. Maybe, like me, you really love to eat well, and you want to cook with vegetables more.

I still smoke a lamb shoulder in the backyard or roast a salmon now and then, but when I plan a meal, it’s more often around vegetables than meat or fish. I shop once or twice a week, either at the supermarket or the farmers’ market, and later I study my pantry and my produce drawer, considering it all strategically — a glut of Persian cucumbers, a bunch of fading dill, some green onion.

A cooling bowl of abdoogh khiar is a great destination for a glut of Persian cucumbers pulled from the crisper.Credit…Christopher Simpson for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

I rummage through my ice-crusted freezer drawer, wondering what that unlabeled quart container is filled with (leftover cannellini beans and greens?), and reach for a half bag of frozen peas. And despite my own inconsistencies when it comes to shopping and planning (and labeling leftovers), vegetables always lead me to something delightful and satisfying.

Frozen peas, brought up in hot, salted water, then roughly puréed with some chile flakes, lemon juice and zest, are positively springy when spread onto a thick piece of sourdough that’s been crisped under the broiler and rubbed with a clove of garlic. Or, simmered with a little cream, they can dress a big bowl of pasta, with black pepper and grated cheese on top.

Persian cucumbers, roughly peeled, chopped and plopped into a blend of buttermilk and yogurt, quickly form the base of Naz Deravian’s abdoogh khiar, an Iranian chilled soup, crunchy with walnuts, which is quick to make, and life-affirming in this late summer heat.

For those who’ve tired of salads, this pizza will have them reconsidering.Credit…Bryan Gardner for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne.

I’m energized by cooks who coax the best out of vegetables, and not only professionals — restaurant cooks, recipe developers, cookbook authors who’ve been working with vegetarian food for far longer than me — but also friends, family and other home cooks who have patiently walked me through a technique, or documented their work online.

Just when I thought I might be getting a little bit sick of salads, for example, Ali Slagle went and put one on a pizza. And not just any pizza, but a super thin-crust pizza covered entirely with a crisp, lacy layer of Parmesan cheese. With all due respect to California Pizza Kitchen, and the chain’s tricolore salad pizza, it is infinitely better than its inspiration.

Piling salad on a cheesy, thin-crust pizza is the kind of smart, simple technique I know I’ll practice again, not only exactly as written, with baby arugula and white beans on top, but maybe with crunchy lettuce in a tahini ranch dressing, or lots of sautéed summer squash. Or maybe with some cherry tomatoes, roasted until they burst, tossed with olive oil and big pieces of torn basil. It’s official, salad pizza is now a part of my repertoire.

And that’s the thing about a good vegetarian recipe: It leads you to a delicious meal, then makes hundreds more possible.

Recipes: Tofu Larb | Salad Pizza With White Beans and Parmesan | Abdoogh Khiar (Chilled Buttermilk Cucumber Soup)

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escortBostancı EscortBeyoğlu Escortsuadiye escorterenköy escortbostancı escortanadolu yakası escortavrupa yakası escortBeylikdüzü EscortBeşiktaş Escortanadolu yakası escortBayrampaşa EscortBaşakşehir Escortümraniye escortBakırköy Escortkadıköy escortBahçelievler Escortbostancı escortBağdat Caddesi Escortataşehir escortBağcılar Escortcevizli escortatalar escortmaltepe escortAvrupa Yakası Escortkartal escortmaltepe escortAvcılar EscortAtaşehir Escortümraniye escortsupertotobetrestbet girisbetpas girisbetbabayurtdisiaugenoperationbotox bruisinghepsibahisrexbetsuperbetinbetsatbets10romabettarafbetbetparkhilbetonbahisbahsegelbahigowinxbetelitbahisdinamobetbetmatiktimebetgebze escortleopard honeyAnkara escortUlus escortTunalı escortTandoğan escortSıhhiye escortRus escortMamak escortMamak escortGölbaşı escortCinsel sağlık ürünleriCinsel performans ilaçlarıCialis fiyatCialis 20 mg fiyatCialis 100 mg fiyatCialis 30 lu tablet fiyatViagra fiyatViagra 100 mg fiyatViagra 30 lu fiyatViagra 4 lü tablet fiyatıVega 100 mgVega 100 mg fiyatVega 100 mg eczaneKamagra jelKamagra Jel fiyatKamagra jel eczaneSertleştirici haplarGeciktirici ürünlercialiscinsel sağlık ürünleribayan azdırıcı fiyatkadın azdırıcı damlasertleştirici ilaçlarcialis fiyatviagra fiyatpenis büyütücükamagra jelgeciktirici spreycialis 20 mgcialis 100 mgviagra 30 luen iyi penis sertleştirici ilaçsertleştirici haplarelazığ escort bayanhasta yataklarıkent switch fiyatmarlboro shuffleparliament aqua bluemarlboro double fusionmarlboro shufflekent switchdjarum blackdjarum blackAnadolu yakası escortAtaşehir escortBostancı escortErenköy Escortavrupa yakası escortAtaköy EscortAvcılar EscortBahçeşehir Escortözel escortlaranal escortçıtır escortelit escortAnadolu Yakası escortAtaşehir escortbağdat caddesi escortBostancı escortGöztepe Escortİstanbul EscortKadıköy EscortKartal EscortKurtköy EscortMaltepe EscortPendik EscortŞerifali EscortTuzla EscortÜmraniye escortÜsküdar EscortAnadolu Yakası EscortAtaşehir escortBostancı EscortGöztepe EscortAvrupa Yakası EscortAksaray escortAtaköy EscortAvcılar Escortİstanbul EscortAtaşehir Elit EscortAtaşehir Esmer EscortAtaşehir Genç EscortAtaşehir Olgun EscortAtaşehir Sarışın EscortAtaşehir Şişman EscortAtaşehir Sınırsız EscortAtaşehir Ucuz EscortAtaşehir Yabancı EscortAteşehir Escort BayanBağdat Caddesi EscortBağdat Caddesi Olgun EscortBağdat Caddesi Sarışın EscortBağdat Caddesi Şişman EscortBağdat Caddesi Ucuz EscortBağdat Caddesi Yabancı EscortBostancı Elit EscortBostancı Çıtır EscortBostancı EscortBostancı Esmer EscortBostancı Olgun EscortBostancı Sarışın EscortBostancı Yabancı EscortGöztepe EscortGöztepe Genç EscortGöztepe Olgun EscortGöztepe Şişman EscortGöztepe Sınırsız EscortGöztepe Ucuz EscortKadıköy Anal EscortKadıköy Elit EscortKadıköy EscortKadıköy Eskort BayanlarKadıköy Genç EscortKadıköy Yabancı EscortKartal Çıtır EscortKartal EscortKartal Eskort BayanlarKartal Esmer EscortKartal Sarışın EscortKartal Sınırsız EscortKartal Ucuz EscortKaynarca 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