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Patagonia, Adorned in Autumn

I was awakened in the predawn hours by a raging downpour. Cold, howling winds were coming off the lake, and the screen door to our half-domed …

Patagonia, Adorned in Autumn

I was awakened in the predawn hours by a raging downpour. Cold, howling winds were coming off the lake, and the screen door to our half-domed shelter was flapping violently. Huddled with a few other hikers, I quickly realized the value of our lodging’s design: It’s one of the few structures that can withstand the extreme weather conditions that are a common occurrence in Patagonia. Thankfully, all of us — along with my camera gear — were safe and dry.

But it was an ominous warning of what would become one of my most exhausting and exhilarating adventures as a travel photographer.

A guanaco atop a ridge. Guanacos, native to South America, are closely related to llamas.

A day earlier, baqueanos — Chilean cowboys and cowgirls — had taken me and my guide on a three-hour horseback journey over mountains and across streams to a remote drop-off location. From there, we trekked over another set of mountains and streams for five more hours to reach the remote Valle del Frances, or French Valley, a stunning place nestled between jagged mountain peaks.

The trailhead entering the French Valley was impassable due to the swollen river.

Our plan was to spend a couple of nights there, taking day hikes into the valley to see the waterfalls and gasp-worthy mountain vistas. As is often the case, however, the Patagonian weather forced us to change our plans.

Harassed by the storm, we hunkered down and waited for the unexpected squall to pass. But after a day with no relief in sight, we instead began planning our escape. But the swollen rivers were impassable, so the baqueanos couldn’t retrieve us. And the wind had created ocean-size waves in the lake, rendering boat travel too dangerous for rescue. We had only one way out: to trek 10 miles back to the lodge.

Measuring some 700 square miles, Torres del Paine National Park is home to a breathtaking array of glaciers, lakes and mountains. This lake seemed docile the day after ocean-size waves prohibited an escape.

This was no ordinary 10-mile hike. Hurricane-force winds required us to crawl up the mountainside. (Hiking upright with backpacks would have created sails and swept us off the mountain.) Crossing rivers required holding onto ropes with meticulous care, knowing that one misstep would result in our being washed away. Forget taking photos; it was impossible.

Lago Sarmiento is recognized for its calcium carbonate deposits called thrombolites, geologic features found around salty, alkaline lakes.

As a photographer, I’d been intrigued by the remote and rugged Patagonia landscapes for many years, voraciously devouring articles and especially photographs from the region. In time, however, I realized that I seldom saw the place depicted in autumn. Snow-capped mountains, vast plains, windswept lakes, eye-catching cowboy outfits — they were almost always seen in summertime. I set out to create what I couldn’t find.

To maximize the possibilities for seeing fall foliage, and accounting for the reversal of the seasons in the southern hemisphere, I planned my trip for mid-April. And as a base camp, I chose Las Torres Reserve, an eco-tourism destination in the heart of Torres del Paine National Park, in southern Chile.

The reserve offers a wide range of lodging options, including a luxury hotel, hostels for hikers in the backcountry and numerous campgrounds. Guests enjoy hiking and riding horses to iconic locations, including the three peaks of the Torres del Paine (“Towers of Blue”), Los Cuernos (“the Horns”) and the French Valley.

Mid-April was the perfect time to capture the peak fall colors.
The view from Las Torres to the valley below was almost as breathtaking as the park’s namesake peaks.

As enamored as I was with the remote landscape and the extreme conditions, I became equally fascinated with the baqueanos and their culture. Nursing my sore legs and back from the epic hike, I spent a day at their ranch, in the barn and corral observing them and their interactions with the horses and guests.

Although I speak some Spanish, understanding their dialect and slang was virtually impossible. No matter — their nonverbal communication told me plenty.

Baqueanos are descendants of the original Patagonian horsemen.

Baqueanos are descendants of the original horsemen who entered Patagonia more than a century ago. They sustain many of their ancestors’ traditions, including a unique clothing style and a unanimous love of yerba maté, an herbal tea, consumed throughout the day and communally shared.

Baqueanos are an integral part of the Patagonian culture.
They spend hours bathing, brushing and coddling their horses, and their tack and saddlery skills are renowned.

A genuine love for their horses was obvious. I watched for hours as baqueanos bathed, brushed and coddled the animals. They knew the horses as well as they knew their co-workers, calling their animals by name and in a tone suitable for each horse’s unique personality.

A few baqueanos live at Las Torres Reserve year round, while others are brought in from area ranches for seasonal work. Regardless of their tenures, they all appeared to endure some of the harshest weather on earth while providing expert care for the horses and the lodge guests.

A baqueano lassoing horses.

As a travel photographer, I’ve come to realize that, the more challenging it is to get to a location, the fewer people who visit. And Patagonia is certainly hard to reach: It took a nine-hour flight from Miami to Santiago, Chile, followed by another four-hour flight to Punta Arenas in southern Chile, and finally a five-hour drive to Torres del Paine National Park.

I’ve also learned that it’s more rewarding if I take the time to experience a place rather than simply seeing it. And the baqueanos at Las Torres Reserve facilitated exactly that kind of meaningful cultural immersion.

Scott Baker is a photographer based in Miami Beach, Fla. You can follow his work on Instagram.

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mg fiyatgaziantep escort bayanGüvenilir bahis SiteleriBalgat escortÇankaya escortCebeci escortDemetevler escortDikmen escortEryaman escortEsat escortEtlik escortKeçiören escortKızılay escortKolej escortRus escortSincan escortYenimahalle escortAtaşehir escortanadolu yakası escortAnadolu yakası escortAtaşehir escortAtaşehir escortKadıköy escortKadıköy escortÜmraniye escortÜmraniye escortBostancı escortBostancı escortbostancı escortpostegroadana escortadana escort bayanafyon escortacarkent escortacibadem escortadalar escortafyon escortalanya escort bayanalanya escortantalya escort bayanantalya escortartvin escortartvin escortbeylikdüzü escortbeylikdüzü escortbeylikdüzü escortbeylikdüzü escortbodrum escortbolu escortbolu escortburdur escortbursa escortbursa escortçanakkale escortçanakkale escortçeşme escortdidim escortdiyarbakır escortdiyarbakır escortedirne escortedirne escortelazığ escortelazığ escorterzincan escorterzincan escorterzurum escorterzurum escortbodrum escortbursa escortbursa escorteskişehir escorteskişehir escortgaziantep escortgaziantep escortgaziantep escortgiresun escortgiresun escortgümüşhane escorthatay escorthatay escortısparta escortısparta escortkars escortkastamonu escortkastamonu escortkayseri escortkayseri escortkıbrıs escortkıbrıs escortkonya escortkonya escortkuşadası escortkütahya escortkütahya escortmalatya escortmalatya escortmanisa escortmanisa escortmardin escortmardin escortmarmaris escortmersin escortnevşehir escortnevşehir escortniğde escortniğde escortordu escortordu escortrize escortrize escortsakarya escortsakarya escortsamsun escortsamsun escortşanlıurfa escortşanlıurfa escortsinop escortsinop escortsivas escortsivas escorttekirdağ escorttekirdağ escorttrabzon escorttrabzon escortuşak escortvan escortvan escortyalova escortyalova escortyozgat escortyozgat escortzonguldak escortzonguldak escortCoinbar girişSafirbet girişcratosslot girişAsyabahis girişTempobet girişMarsbahis girişBetebet girişVdcasino girişVevobahis girişBetper 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escortBostancı EscortBeyoğlu Escortsuadiye escorterenköy escortbostancı escortanadolu yakası escortavrupa yakası escortBeylikdüzü EscortBeşiktaş Escortanadolu yakası escortBayrampaşa EscortBaşakşehir Escortümraniye escortBakırköy Escortkadıköy escortBahçelievler Escortbostancı escortBağdat Caddesi Escortataşehir escortBağcılar Escortcevizli escortatalar escortmaltepe escortAvrupa Yakası Escortkartal escortmaltepe escortAvcılar EscortAtaşehir Escortümraniye escortsupertotobetrestbet girisbetpas girisbetbabayurtdisiaugenoperationbotox bruisinghepsibahisrexbetsuperbetinbetsatbets10romabettarafbetbetparkhilbetonbahisbahsegelbahigowinxbetelitbahisdinamobetbetmatiktimebetgebze escortleopard honeyAnkara escortUlus escortTunalı escortTandoğan escortSıhhiye escortRus escortMamak escortMamak escortGölbaşı escortCinsel sağlık ürünleriCinsel performans ilaçlarıCialis fiyatCialis 20 mg fiyatCialis 100 mg fiyatCialis 30 lu tablet fiyatViagra fiyatViagra 100 mg fiyatViagra 30 lu fiyatViagra 4 lü tablet fiyatıVega 100 mgVega 100 mg fiyatVega 100 mg eczaneKamagra jelKamagra Jel fiyatKamagra jel eczaneSertleştirici haplarGeciktirici ürünlercialiscinsel sağlık ürünleribayan azdırıcı fiyatkadın azdırıcı damlasertleştirici ilaçlarcialis fiyatviagra fiyatpenis büyütücükamagra jelgeciktirici spreycialis 20 mgcialis 100 mgviagra 30 luen iyi penis sertleştirici ilaçsertleştirici haplarelazığ escort bayanhasta yataklarıkent switch fiyatKeno Club Sigaraparliament aqua bluemarlboro double fusionGauloises Sigarakent switchdjarum blackLeader SigaraAnadolu yakası escortAtaşehir escortBostancı escortErenköy Escortavrupa yakası escortAtaköy EscortAvcılar EscortBahçeşehir Escortözel escortlaranal escortçıtır escortelit escortAnadolu Yakası escortAtaşehir escortbağdat caddesi escortBostancı escortGöztepe Escortİstanbul EscortKadıköy EscortKartal EscortKurtköy EscortMaltepe EscortPendik EscortŞerifali EscortTuzla EscortÜmraniye escortÜsküdar EscortAnadolu Yakası EscortAtaşehir escortBostancı EscortGöztepe EscortAvrupa Yakası EscortAksaray escortAtaköy EscortAvcılar Escortİstanbul EscortAtaşehir Elit EscortAtaşehir Esmer EscortAtaşehir Genç EscortAtaşehir Olgun EscortAtaşehir Sarışın EscortAtaşehir Şişman EscortAtaşehir Sınırsız EscortAtaşehir Ucuz EscortAtaşehir Yabancı EscortAteşehir Escort BayanBağdat Caddesi EscortBağdat Caddesi Olgun EscortBağdat Caddesi Sarışın EscortBağdat Caddesi Şişman EscortBağdat Caddesi Ucuz EscortBağdat Caddesi Yabancı EscortBostancı Elit EscortBostancı Çıtır EscortBostancı EscortBostancı Esmer EscortBostancı Olgun EscortBostancı Sarışın EscortBostancı Yabancı EscortGöztepe EscortGöztepe Genç EscortGöztepe Olgun EscortGöztepe Şişman EscortGöztepe Sınırsız EscortGöztepe Ucuz EscortKadıköy Anal EscortKadıköy Elit EscortKadıköy EscortKadıköy Eskort BayanlarKadıköy Genç EscortKadıköy Yabancı EscortKartal Çıtır EscortKartal EscortKartal Eskort BayanlarKartal Esmer EscortKartal Sarışın EscortKartal Sınırsız EscortKartal Ucuz EscortKaynarca EscortKaynarca Genç EscortKaynarca Olgun EscortKaynarca Şişman EscortKurtköy EscortKurtköy Escort BayanKurtköy Ucuz EscortKurtköy Yabancı Escort BayanMaltepe Anal EscortMaltepe EscortMaltepe Genç EscortMaltepe Olgun EscortMaltepe Şişman EscortPendik EskortPendik Eskort BayanlarPendik Sarışın EscortPendik Şişman EscortPendik Sınırsız EscortPendik Ucuz EscortTuzla Anal EscortTuzla Elit EscortTuzla EscortTuzla Yabancı EscortÜmraniye EscortÜmraniye Masöz EscortÜmraniye Olgun EscortÜmraniye Ucuz Escortepoksi zeminepoksi zemin kaplamaepoksi yol çizgisişişli escortAcıbadem Escortİçerenköy EscortKozyatağı EscortKüçükyalı EscortKadıköy EscortKartal EscortMaltepe EscortPendik EscortKurtköy EscortŞerifali EscortAnadolu Yakası EscortKadıköy EscortAtaşehir EscortBostancı EscortAtaşehir EscortKadıköy EscortKurtköy EscortAnadolu Yakası EscortAnadolu Yakası EscortAtaşehir EscortBostancı EscortKadıköy EscortAnadolu Yakası EscortKadıköy EscortAtaşehir EscortBostancı EscortMaltepe EscortGöztepe EscortPendik EscortErenköy EscortGöztepe EscortSuadiye EscortGöztepe EscortMaltepe EscortŞerifali EscortKartal EscortKurtköy EscortPendik EscortKurtköy EscortPendik EscortAnadolu Yakası EscortKartal EscortMaltepe EscortAnadolu Yakası EscortKartal Escort BayanKurtköy Escort BayanMaltepe Escort BayanPendik Escort BayanAnadolu Yakası EscortKartal EscortKurtköy EscortMaltepe EscortPendik EscortTuzla EscortKurtköy EscortPendik EscortTuzla EscortAnadolu Yakası EscortMaltepe EscortKartal EscortBostancı EscortÜmraniye EscortAnadolu Yakası EscortKadıköy EscortAtaşehir EscortTuzla EscortGebze EscortAydınlı EscortMutlukent EscortPendik EscortAnadolu Yakası EscortKurtköy EscortÜmraniye EscortBostancı EscortKartal Escort BayanPendik Escort BayanKurtköy Escort BayanMaltepe EscortAnadolu Yakası EscortBostancı EscortKartal EscortMaltepe EscortÜmraniye Escortbağdat caddesi escortgöztepe escortistanbul escortkartal escortkurtköy escortmaltepe escortpendik escorttuzla escortüsküdar escortataköy escortavcılar escort bayanavrupa yakası escortbahçeşehir escortbakırköy escortbeşiktaş escortbeylikdüzü escorterenköy escortetiler escortgöztepe escortikitelli escortkartal escortkurtköy escortmaltepe escortmecidiyeköy escortpendik escortşirinevler escortşişli escortsoğanlık escortataşehir escortkaynarca escortümraniye escortgebze escorttuzla escortavrupa yakası escortavrupa yakası escortavrupa yakası escortavrupa yakası escortavrupa yakası escortavrupa yakası escortavrupa yakası escortavrupa yakası escortavrupa yakası escortatalar escortcevizli escortescort bayanmaltepe escortbeylikdüzü escortavcılar escortesenyurt escortbahçeşehir escortşirinevler escortataköy escortbeylikduzuescortev.comescort beylikdüzüWhatsapp aerobeylikdüzü eskortbahariye escortmoda escortsex hikayeleriadana escortadıyaman escortafyon escortağrı escortaksaray escortamasya escortankara escortantalya escortantep escortardahan escortartvin escortaydın escortbalıkesir escortbartın escortbatman escortbayburt 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