Bağımsız Güncel Son Dakika Haber Sitesi

How to Make an Unloved Job More Attractive? Restaurants Tinker With Wages.

Long before the pandemic persuaded so many restaurant employees to abandon the business, Corrinna Stum chafed at the illogic of the pay. She …

How to Make an Unloved Job More Attractive? Restaurants Tinker With Wages.

Long before the pandemic persuaded so many restaurant employees to abandon the business, Corrinna Stum chafed at the illogic of the pay.

She started as a server at age 15, and quickly discovered how stressful it could be to earn only the federal minimum wage for tipped employees (now $2.13 an hour) and hope that tips would make her whole. Her husband, Matt, a cook, was never entitled to a share of diners’ largess.

So last spring, when the couple opened Ruby’s West End, a cafe in Portland, Maine, they decided that every aspect of their restaurant would diverge from business as usual. Ms. Stum, 30, spurned pricey subscriptions for reservation and scheduling software, and instead used that money to help pay every member of her small team $12.15 per hour, Maine’s full minimum wage. She also added a 20 percent service charge to every check, to be shared with the kitchen staff, which traditionally doesn’t benefit from tips.

Word of those plans was enough to lure one server, Olivia Shipsey, from her job at a busy downtown restaurant, even though it meant giving up the generous tips she earned there. “I knew that was something I wanted to be a part of.” said Ms. Shipsey, 23, who is now Ruby’s morning manager. On a good day, the service charge can lift her wages to as much as $27 an hour, on par with what she earned downtown.

Corrinna Stum, right, an owner of Ruby’s West End, a small cafe in Portland, Maine, was determined to offer more equitable wages to all employees. The policy lured Olivia Shipley, left, from her previous job as a server in a busy restaurant.. Credit…Ryan David Brown for The New York Times

Low, inequitable or unpredictable wages, long hours and few benefits have long been accepted hallmarks of the American restaurant industry. But in the pandemic, many workers — whether laid off or facing health risks on the job — have concluded that those conditions are intolerable.

Since the mandatory shutdowns of last year, restaurant workers have left their jobs in droves, and many have quit the industry for good. The latest numbers from the federal Labor Department show that after respectable increases in the previous six months, hiring in the hospitality industry stagnated in August. As of late July, restaurants were nearly one million jobs, or 8 percent, below prepandemic levels, and 75 percent of restaurant operators report that recruiting and retaining employees was their top challenge, the highest level recorded in two decades, according to the National Restaurant Association.

The hiring crisis has prompted many restaurants to raise wages: Pay for hourly workers in leisure and hospitality jumped 13 percent to an average of $16.60 in August, from $14.72 a year ago. Many big chains and some high-end restaurant groups — including Starr Restaurants, which owns Upland and Buddakan in New York City — have made headlines by offering signing bonuses to new employees.

But a growing number of restaurants are trying to get at the root causes of inequitable pay by moving away from the tipped minimum wage. That wage allows servers the chance to earn more than cooks, but also puts them at the mercy of customers, who in the wake of the pandemic have become less generous tippers and more unruly diners. Some owners are also trying to instigate some measure of work-life balance in an industry where late-night hours and 80-hour workweeks were once a badge of honor.

In a two-week survey released on Monday, One Fair Wage, an advocacy group for service workers, found more than 1,600 restaurants that were paying an average wage of $13.50 plus tips across 41 states — states where earlier this year the vast majority of restaurants paid a tipped minimum wage of $5 or less.

Since reopening in June, Lula Cafe, in Chicago, has instituted a 20 percent service charge, which is split among servers and cooks.Credit…David Kasnic for The New York Times

“For me, it would have been difficult to stop the business I had been running for 22 years, because everything was moving so fast,” said Jason Hammel, the chef and owner of Lula Cafe, in Chicago. “The pandemic gave me an opportunity to start with a blank slate and say, let’s rebuild the model and the way we’ve always done things.”

Mr. Hammel had ample time to reflect on how to restructure. After closing in March 2020, Lula Cafe didn’t reopen its dining room until last June. Mr. Hammel hosted a job fair, hoping to hire 40 workers, and explained to potential employees his plans to pay higher hourly wages — somewhere between $18 and $24 for most — by adding a 20 percent service charge to every check. Any additional tips would go into a pool to be split by all employees. As he did before the pandemic, Mr. Hammel also offered health benefits, paid vacation time and a 401(k) plan.

As Lula Cafe explains to patrons on its website, and often tableside, the service-fee system is not a smart move in terms of profits. The 20 percent fee doesn’t come close to covering the wages and benefits Lula provides, Mr. Hammel said. Because a service fee is categorized as income, Mr. Hammel must pay taxes on it, while forgoing a federal tax credit for employers who pay the tipped minimum wage.

But Mr. Hammel noted a significant upside: He hasn’t struggled to hire.

Certainly, tipping has its defenders, including servers who see it as a key part of their compensation. And a tacked-on charge can offend potential customers who bristle at the idea of an obligatory tip, regardless of the quality of service they receive. At Ruby’s, in Maine, Ms. Stum noted that one customer asked to have the 20-percent service fee taken off the bill, then added it back as a tip. “People like to have the power in their hands,”she said.

***

Amanda Cohen, the chef-owner of Dirt Candy, on the Lower East Side of Manhattan, is a pioneer of and evangelist for eliminating tips. She moved to a service-inclusive system — in which menu prices cover everything — in 2015, the same year Danny Meyer’s Union Square Hospitality Group instituted a “hospitality included” policy with great fanfare. (Mr. Meyer ended that practice last year.)

Amanda Cohen, the chef and owner of Dirt Candy, eliminated tipping in 2015. Changes made in the pandemic, including a streamlined menu, have helped to make that business model more sustainable.Credit…Lanna Apisukh for The New York Times
Diners at Dirt Candy do not tip. All service fees are included in the price of the food, and are used to pay all employees an equitable hourly wage.Credit…Lanna Apisukh for The New York Times

For Ms. Cohen, it was an effort not only to challenge the very concept of tipping, which she called “inherently racist and sexist,” but also to attract and keep workers. “Everyone is making it seem like the difficulties finding staff is a post-pandemic issue,” she said. “But it was real before the pandemic, too, especially in New York City.”

Her new system was costly. Ms. Cohen says that, despite enthusiastic reviews and hard-to-get reservations, she often barely broke even. Profits hovered at about 1 percent, she said. “We were always teetering on the edge of collapse.”

The pandemic changed that. Like many restaurateurs, Ms. Cohen streamlined her menu, serving a tasting of three courses instead of the five or 10 previously on offer. Fewer choices drastically lowered her food costs and the number of people needed to prepare the intricate dishes she is known for, like an eggplant tiramisù served with a cloud of cotton candy.

Today, Dirt Candy offers just one five-course menu, and starts all employees at $25 an hour. Last month, its profits hit 5 percent, Ms. Cohen said. “The only way I could pay fairly was to start running a better business,” she added. “It’s not the restaurant I dreamed of having, but it’s the one that functions.”

Some restaurants that aren’t ready to make the leap to a new wage structure are tweaking around the edges, offering additional benefits and less grueling schedules. Ellen Yin, a partner in the Philadelphia-based High Street Hospitality Group, has long offered a health plan, but will soon add one with lower premiums, and a student-debt reduction program. This month, Jason Berry, a founder of Knead Hospitality, a restaurant group in Washington, D.C., will start introducing a four-day workweek for his restaurants’ managers.

Mr. Berry proposed the schedule switch — four 12-hour days instead of five 11-hour shifts — after losing two valued longtime employees this summer. One quit to sell wine, the other to follow a dream and write children’s books.

“It’s a sign of what’s happening in the industry,” Mr. Berry said.

Jason Berry, an owner of the restaurant group Knead Hospitality, in Washington, D.C., is trying to create a better work-life balance for his employees. This month, he will begin offering managers a four-day workweek.Credit…Rosem Morton for The New York Times

The changes will require more hiring, and will increase operating costs — an added $250,000 a year, for example, at the first restaurant to make the switch, Mr. Berry said. But he feels the math still makes sense. Losing workers costs money in time, recruiting and training. And despite the pandemic, the company is expanding fast; it plans to grow from five restaurants this spring to 14 in 2022.

“How do you differentiate yourself in a city where everyone is hiring and everyone wants the best people?” he said. “We hope to bring some balance back to people’s lives who still love the industry.”

Whether such changes will be enough to stem an exodus of employees is yet to be seen. In May, a survey by One Fair Wage showed that 53 percent of restaurant workers in the United States were considering leaving their jobs, with concerns about low wages and tips outpacing Covid health risks as the reason by more than 20 percentage points.

Saru Jayaraman, president of One Fair Wage, says new laws are needed to protect workers and level the playing field for restaurants trying to make change. The Biden Administration has called on Congress to do just that by passing the Raise the Wage Act, which would phase out the tipped minimum wage — though the bill is opposed by the National Restaurant Association and lacks support from key Democrats.

“It has to be universal, permanent change that makes a worker feel like it’s worth coming back to this industry,” Ms. Jayaraman said.

In the meantime, chefs and restaurateurs will continue to try to test new models. At Ruby’s West End in Maine, Ms. Stum is building a new patio, and hopes that with more seats she will soon be able to raise base wages to $15 an hour.

“It’s not that hard,” she said. “It just takes the will to do it.”

Follow NYT Food on Twitter and NYT Cooking on Instagram, Facebook, YouTube and Pinterest. Get regular updates from NYT Cooking, with recipe suggestions, cooking tips and shopping advice.

BU KONUYU SOSYAL MEDYA HESAPLARINDA PAYLAŞ
ZİYARETÇİ YORUMLARI

Henüz yorum yapılmamış. İlk yorumu aşağıdaki form aracılığıyla siz yapabilirsiniz.

BİR YORUM YAZ
bahçe dekorasyonu evde ek gelir eskişehir haber sondakika haberleri magazin haberleri seo sorgulama site analiz seo analiz google sıra bulucu backlink sorgulama sunucu tarama çekiliş çekiliş sitesi Who is html kod şifreleme seo hacklink hacklink satış hacklink panel wordpress ücretsiz tema wordpress free themes wordpress free tema wordpress themes wordpress hacklink al kilo verme wso shell php shell hacklink hacklink panel hızlı seo hacklink seo nedir wso shell instagram takipçi hilesi instagram takipçi hilesi
bahçe dekorasyonu evde ek gelir eskişehir haber sondakika haberleri magazin haberleri seo sorgulama site analiz seo analiz google sıra bulucu backlink sorgulama sunucu tarama çekiliş çekiliş sitesi Who is html kod şifreleme seo hacklink hacklink satış hacklink panel wordpress ücretsiz tema wordpress free themes wordpress free tema wordpress themes wordpress hacklink al kilo verme wso shell php shell hacklink hacklink panel hızlı seo hacklink seo nedir wso shell
hacklink satışbacklink satışsite analizseo analizseo araclarıbacklinkcialis jelcialis fiyatlifta 20 mgviagra satın alviagra 100 mg fiyatviagra siparişcialis 5 mg fiyatsertleştirici haplarlifta hapkayganlaştırıcıbayan azdırıcıpenis büyütücülergeciktiricilerereksiyon haplarıpenis sertleştirici haplarpenis büyütme ürünlerisertleştirici ereksiyon haplarısancaktepe escorteskisehir escortalpu escortizmir escortankara escortmersin escorteskişehir escortgaziantep escortsakarya escortkayseri escortantalya escortistanbul escortbursa escortadana escortadıyamanescortafyon escortağrı escortaksaray escortartvin escortaydın escortamasya escortardahan escortbalıkesir escortbartın escortbatman escortbayburt escortbilecik escortbingöl escortbitlis escortbolu escortburdur escortçanakkale escortçankırı escortçorum escortdenizli escortdiyarbakır escortdüzce escortedirne escortelazığ escorterzincan escorterzurum escortgiresun escortgümüşhane escorthatay escortığdır escortısparta escortmaraş escortkarabük escortkars escortkastamonu escortkilis escortkırıkkale escortkırklareli escortkırşehir escortkocaeli escortkonya escortkütahya escortmalatya escortmanisa escortmardin escortmuğla escortmuş escortnevşehir escortniğde escortordu escortosmaniye escortrize escortsamsun escorturfa escortsiirt escortuşak escortsinop escortşırnak escortsivas escorttekirdağ escorttokat escorttrabzon escorttunceli escortvan escortyozgat escortyalova escortzonguldak escortkıbrıs escortpendik escortesenyurt escortzeytinburnu escortküçükçekmece escortbeşiktaş escorttuzla escortbeykoz escortfatih escortsancaktepe escortarnavutköy escortbağcılar escortümraniye escortbeyoğlu escortüsküdar escortesenler escortmecidiyeköy escortsarıyer escortetiler escortlevent escortbebek escortgaziosmanpaşa escortkartal escortbaşakşehir escortşişli escorthalkalı escortbahçelievler escortortaköy escorteyüp escortbahçeşehir escortkağıthane escorttaksim escortçekmeköy escortbayrampaşa escortbeylikdüzü escortkadıköy escortataşehir escortbakırköy escortataköy escortnişantaşı escortkozyatağı escortavcılar escortbüyükçekmece escortkurtköy escortiçerenköy escortbostancı escortşirinevler escorterenköy escortadana escortadıyaman escortafyon escortağrı escortaksaray escortamasya escortankara escortantalya escortardahan escortartvin escortaydın escortbalıkesir escortbartın escortbatman escortbayburt escortbilecik escortbingöl escortbitlis escortbolu escortburdur escortbursa escortçanakkale escortçankırı escortçorum escortdenizli escortdiyarbakir escortdüzce escortedirne escortelazığ escorterzincan escorterzurum escorteskişehir escortantep escortgiresun escortgümüşhane escorthakkari escorthatay escortığdır escortistanbul escortizmir escortkarabük escortkaraman escortkars escortkastamonu escortkütahya escortkayseri escortkıbrıs escortkilis escortkırıkkale escortkırklareli escortkırşehir escortkocaeli escortkonya escortmalatya escortmanisa escortmaraş escortmardin escortmersin escortmuğla escortmuş escortnevşehir escortniğde escortordu escortosmaniye escortrize escortsakarya escortsamsun escortsiirt escortsinop escortçorlu escortçerkezköy escortsivas escortmanisa escortizmir escorthatay escorterzurum escortbalikesir escorturfa escorttrabzon escorttekirdag escortsamsun escortsakarya escortordu escortmugla escortmersin escortmardin escortmaras escortmalatya escortkonya escortkocaeli escortkayseri escorteskisehir escortdiyarbakir escortdenizli escortbursa escortaydin escortantep escortankara escortadana escortkuvvet macunusertleştirici macunyapay kızlık zarısertleştirici ilaçlarserleşme haplarısertleştirici ereksiyon ilaçlarıereksiyon haplarıvajina daraltıcı kremeczane ereksiyon ilaçlarıpenis sertleştiricihacklinkwordpress ücretsiz temahacklink seowso shellwso shellwso shellhtml code encryptionhtml kod şifrelemeinstagram takipçi hilesiçekiliş sitesiserver scansunucu taramasite speed testsite hız testiseo newsgoogle newssite analysisseo analysisbacklink saleshacklink panelwordpress themeswordpress free temaWordpress Free Themeshtml kod şifrelemeWho isbacklink alsunucu taramapubg hile alTanıtım Yazısıseoseo sorgulaseo sorgulamaBest Gaming Monitorswireless earbudsshapermint bra reviewsBest Dog Crateraycon reviewsbest stethoscopeinstagram beğeni hilesiinstagram unfollowinstagram takipci satın alinstagram Followers Freeinsagram Free Followerssmm panelsmm panelinstagram takipci hilesiinstagram Followersinstagram free likesinstagram takipci hilesiinstagram takipci hilesiinstagram takipci hilesiinstagram takipci hilesibomonti escortgültepe escortbursa escortnisantasi escorttaksim escortkurtkoy escort bayanpendik escort bayantatto girlsoyun indirmakale programımeme küçültmeinstagram takipçi hilesibacklink albacklink satıştempobet1xbetrotabetjojobetsekabetbetisttempobet1xbetmobilbahisperabetmarsbahissuperbetincratosslotpaykwikastropaytempobetbetbooelexbetsultanbetbaymavicasinomaxirestbetsafirbetsafirbettempobetbetebet canlikadın newskadına özelworld newssex hikayeizmir escortmersin escortataşehir escortataşehir escortbeşiktaş escortesenler escortesenyurt escortfatih escortkadıköy escortkartal escortmaltepe escortpendik escortsarıyer escortpendik escortmaltepe escortkartal escortkadıköy escorttaksim escortsilivri escortşişli escortbağcılar escortbursa escortantalya escortankara escortadana escortgaziantep escortseo analysisistanbul escortviagra satın alviagra fiyatıdegrawso shellpendik escortc99 shelladana escortcanlı bahisadana eskortnevşehir escortbedava bonus veren bahis siteleribedava bonusdeneme bonusu30 tl bonus veren bahis sitelerihoşgeldin bonususex hikayeleriTürkçe Bahis Şirketlericanlı bahiskaçak iddaabahisbahis sitelerihoşgeldin bonusu veren bahis siteleriporno hikayeleristanbul escortc99 shellr57 shellbypass shellwebroot shellpendik escortvigrandedegra 100 mgorcafilcialis nedircialis 20 mg eczane fiyatıcialis fiyatcialis 20 mgcialis 100 mgviagra fiyatliftalifta 5 mghardciscialis eczanecialis 5 mg fiyatıcialis 100 mg fiyatcialis 5 mgviagra fiyatlarıviagra satışonline eczane viagraviagra eczanecialis 20 mgcialis 100 mgcialis hapcialis 20cialis eczanecialis satışcialis fiyatlarıcialis fiyatıviagra fiyatviagra fiyatlarıviagra eczaneviagra satın alpfizer viagra satışonline eczane viagrapfizer viagra satın alviagra siparişviagra sipariş hattıviagra fiyat 2021online viagra siparişviagra fiyat 2021 eczaneviagra fiyat eczaneankara escortAnkara escort kızlarEscort ankaraankara escort bayanSincan escortSincan escort bayanEryaman escortEscort eryamanEscort sincanEtlik escortEtlik escort bayanKızılay escortantalya escortantalya escort bayanantalya escort bayanantalya escortankara escort bayanKeçiören escort bayanEscort ankaraKızılay escort bayanEryaman escort bayanEscort antalyaÇankaya escortEscort antalyaKeçiören EscortÇankaya escort bayanankara escortAnkara rus escortkartal escortcialis 5 mgkamagra satın alkamagrakamagra jelkamagra jel siparişkamagra siparişkamagra fiyatkamagra jel fiyatıkamagra fiyatıkamagra 100mgkamagra 100mg fiyatsüper kamagrakamagra nedirpendik escortkurtkoy escorttuzla escortkayseri escortmozrankGamelooplogsuz shell indirlitespeed bypass shellindoxploit shellphp shellgoogle sıra buluculitespeed bypass shellbacklink sorgulamaeryaman escortistanbul bayan escorthacklink satışbacklink satışhacklink panelhacklinkbingöl escorteskişehir escortkırklareli escortçekmeköy escortsultangazi escortbodrum escortkuşadası escortc99 shellc99 shelllifta 20 mgliftalifta 20lifta 20 mg nedirlifta nedirhacklink seokarşıyaka escortbuca escortalsancak escortkonak escortkuşadası escortbeylikdüzü escortbornova escortçeşme escortgöztepe escortçankaya escortankara escortankara escort bayanescort ankaraescort ankaraankara escort bayanankara escortankara escortankara escort bayanescort ankaraphp encodebase64 encodecialis fiyatcialis fiyatlarıcialis 20 mgcialiscialis 100 mgcialis 5 mgcialis satışviagra fiyatıPendik EscortTuzla EscortKartal EscortKurtkoy EscortMalatya EscortEryaman EscortÇankaya Escortkayseri escortadana escortamasya escortbartın escortbatman escortadıyaman escortbayburt escortartvin escortantalya escortaydın escortbalıkesir escortağrı escortafyon escortbilecik escortbingöl escortburdur escortbolu escortbursa escortçanakkale escortçorum escortdüzce escortedirne escortçankırı escortdiyarbakır escortdenizli escortelazığ escortgiresun escorthatay escortkaraman escortısparta escortmaraş escortkars escortkastamonu escortgümüşhane escorteskişehir escortkarabük escorterzincan escorterzurum escortkayseri escortkütahya escortkırıkkale escortkırklareli escortmardin escortkonya escortmuğla escortkocaeli escortmanisa escortmersin escortkırşehir escortmalatya escortmuş escortosmaniye escortnevşehir escortniğde escortsamsun escortordu escortrize escorturfa escortsakarya escortsinop escorttekirdağ escortyalova escortzonguldak escortyozgat escortsivas escorttunceli escorttrabzon escortuşak escorttokat escortvan escortşırnak escortsivas escortuşak escorttunceli escortkıbrıs escortkıbrıs escorttekirdağ escortyozgat escorttokat escortzonguldak escorttrabzon escortvan escortyalova escortantalya escortankara escortizleANKARA ESCORTviagra fiyatinstagram followers freeEreksiyon Haplarıorcafil 5 mgflynta 5 mglifta 5 mgflynta 20 mglifta 20 mgdegra fiyatdegra 100 mgsildegra 100 mgsildegrasinegravigrandevigrande 100 mgcombo 100 mgvigaroojeligrasisli escortankara escorteskişehir escortizmir escortantalya escorthurma escortkonyaaltı escortlara escortANKARA ESCORTankara escortANKARA BAYAN ESCORTistanbul escortspam skoru öğrenalexa sorgulamaspam skoru sorgulamawho isalexa sorguyemek tarifleriyemek tarifi alyemek tarifitatlı tarifipasta tarifi